An under desk keyboard tray moves your keyboard and mouse down and closer to you, below the desktop. It frees the top of the desk, and on a desk that is too tall it can bring your hands to elbow height. It only helps if it fits your desk, though. The best tray for your setup depends on how it mounts, whether your mouse fits on it, and how much knee room is left once it’s installed.

Quick answer

Measure the desk, then pick the tray type.

This guide groups trays by type, since most listings fall into a few clear designs. Measure your desk first, pick the type that matches it, then compare listings by the specs below.

Start with
mount · surface · knee room

Compare the types

Top pick: Clamp-on keyboard tray (no drilling)

It grips the desk instead of screwing into it, so it suits renters and desks you can't drill, and you can move it later. Measure your desk thickness first and match it to the clamp range on the listing.

Check price

Quick picks

  • Best no-drill option: clamp-on tray. Good for renters and for desks you can’t screw into.
  • Best for adjustability: full-length track tray with height and negative tilt.
  • Best for a clean look: sliding drawer-style tray that pushes fully under the desk.
  • Best for small desks: compact tray sized for a tenkeyless or 75% keyboard.
  • Best for mouse users: wide tray with room for the keyboard and mouse side by side.

Under desk keyboard tray types compared

Type How it mounts Surface Adjustment What your desk needs Best for Shop
Clamp-on Clamps to the desk’s front edge or underside, no drilling Usually keyboard-only or a modest keyboard + mouse surface Often slide-out; some tilt A clamp-friendly edge and enough thickness and overhang for the clamp’s range Renters, glass-free solid desks, quick installs Check price
Track-mounted Screws a long track to the underside; an arm rides in it Separate platform, often with a mouse area Height, tilt (often negative tilt) and swivel on many designs A solid underside with enough clear depth for the track, and nothing in the way of screws Ergonomic setups, sit-stand users Same search, filter track
Sliding drawer style Screws two side rails to the underside Flat drawer-like board Slides in and out; usually fixed height Width between legs and supports, and clear depth for the rails Clean desks, occasional typing Same search, filter drawer
Compact Clamp or screw rails, short platform Narrow tray Usually slide-out only Less width and depth than full-size trays Small desks, compact keyboards Same search, filter compact
Wide keyboard + mouse Screw rails or track; wide platform Keyboard and mouse at the same height Varies by design Plenty of clear width and solid mounting points Full-size keyboards, mouse-heavy work Same search, filter wide

Most listings give the platform size, but not the full footprint of the rails or brackets. Look for a dimension drawing, the weight limit the maker states, and the included hardware before you buy.

1. Clamp-on keyboard tray (no drilling)

A clamp-on tray grips the desk with screw clamps instead of going into the desktop, so you can move it later or take it with you. It’s the usual choice for rented furniture, office desks you aren’t allowed to modify, and desktops too thin to take screws.

What to check:

  • Clamp range: the listing should state the minimum and maximum desk thickness. Measure your desktop at the exact spot where the clamp will sit.
  • Front apron: a frame or lip under the front edge can block the clamp. Check before you order.
  • Overhang and wobble: a clamp holds by pressure, so a long slide-out platform puts more leverage on it. Type on it as you normally would and check whether it bounces.
  • Surface protection: look for pads on the clamp so it doesn’t mark the desk.

Shopping tip for clamp-on trays: compare the clamp range against your desk thickness. The top pick box above links them.

2. Full-length track tray with negative tilt

A track tray mounts a long rail under the desk. An arm rides in that rail and holds the keyboard platform. This design usually offers the most adjustment: the platform can move up and down, slide back under the desk and, on many models, tilt so the back of the keyboard sits lower than the front (negative tilt). Some people find negative tilt keeps their wrists straighter. It’s a matter of preference, not a guarantee of comfort.

What to check:

  • Track length vs desk depth: the track needs clear, flat underside space. Crossbars, drawers and cable trays get in the way.
  • Height range: check whether the platform can sit below the desk, level with it, or both. Standing desk users need to know where the platform ends up in both positions.
  • Tilt lock: the tilt should stay put under typing pressure. A loose tilt is worse than no tilt.
  • Mounting: you’ll be screwing into the desktop, so check the screw length against your desk thickness. Our keyboard tray installation guide covers screw mounts step by step.

Shopping tip for track-mounted trays: look for a stated height range and tilt lock.

3. Sliding drawer-style tray

A drawer-style tray uses two side rails and a flat board, much like a desk drawer without the box. Push it in and the keyboard disappears under the desk, which is the cleanest look of any type. The tradeoff is adjustment: most drawer trays slide in and out at one fixed height just under the desktop.

What to check:

  • Rail spacing: measure the clear width between the desk legs or supports where the rails will mount.
  • Drop below the desktop: the board sits a little lower than the desk surface. Check that this still leaves room for your thighs when you sit.
  • Slide quality: ball-bearing slides tend to run more smoothly than plain plastic runners. Check the listing for what’s used.
  • Clash with storage: if you have, or plan to add, an under desk drawer, work out where both will go before you drill.

Shopping tip for drawer-style trays: compare board width and rail type.

4. Compact tray for small desks

On a narrow or shallow desk, a full-size tray can take up all the knee room. Compact trays are shorter and narrower, sized for tenkeyless, 75% or 60% keyboards. Pair one with a small keyboard, and use a trackpad or a small mouse on the desk or a clip-on wing.

What to check:

  • Platform width vs your keyboard: measure the keyboard itself, plus any wrist rest you’ll use with it.
  • Legroom under the tray: small desks often have the least space underneath. Check for under-desk PCs, power strips and footrests too. If a computer lives down there, see our guide to under desk PC mounts for small desks.
  • Mounting points: compact desks often have thin tops or metal frames, which can rule out screws. A compact clamp-on design may be the only option.

Shopping tip for compact trays: check the platform width against your keyboard.

5. Wide tray with keyboard and mouse space

The most common problem with keyboard trays is the mouse. If the keyboard sits low on the tray but the mouse stays on the desktop, your two hands work at different heights and reaches. A wide tray keeps both at the same height. Some designs have a full-width platform, others add a mouse wing to the side.

What to check:

  • Total width: measure your keyboard and your mouse movement area together, not the keyboard alone.
  • Mouse wing level: a wing should sit at the same height as the keyboard surface and stay put when you move the mouse fast.
  • Load: a wide platform with a heavy mechanical keyboard and a wrist rest puts more load on the mount. Compare the stated weight limit with what you’ll put on it.
  • Clearance at the sides: a wide tray can hit chair arms. Lower or remove the arms, or check the tray width against the gap between them.

Shopping tip for wide keyboard + mouse trays: compare total platform width.

Who needs an under desk keyboard tray?

  • People whose desk is too tall. If your elbows sit below the desktop when your feet are flat, a tray can bring the keyboard down to elbow height without lowering the whole desk.
  • Shallow desks. A tray that slides out adds typing depth, so the monitor can sit farther back.
  • Shared or multi-use desks. Push the keyboard away and you have the whole desktop for writing, drawing or a laptop.
  • People managing wrist or forearm discomfort. Getting the height right is one piece of a wider setup. Our desk setup for carpal tunnel guide covers the rest. A tray is not a medical treatment, so ask a clinician about persistent pain.

A tray may not help if your desk is already at elbow height, if the desk has no usable underside, or if you have very little legroom.

Measure before you buy: checklist

  1. Desk thickness at the mounting spot (for clamp range or screw length).
  2. Front apron or frame: height and depth of anything under the front edge.
  3. Clear underside depth and width between legs, crossbars, drawers and cable trays.
  4. Legroom: distance from the floor to the underside, minus the tray’s drop, compared with your seated thigh height.
  5. Chair arms: height and the gap between them; check they’ll clear the tray.
  6. Keyboard + mouse zone: combined width and depth, including any wrist rest.
  7. Sit-stand travel: if the desk moves, check cable slack and tray position at both heights.
  8. Desk stability: a desk that already wobbles will wobble more with a tray hanging off it. Fix the wobble first.

Once you have the numbers, compare listings by the platform size, the full mount footprint and the weight limit the maker states. Don’t judge strength from a photo.

Got your measurements? Compare under desk keyboard trays by mount type and size.

Browse trays

Hands measuring the underside of a desk with a tape measure before installing a keyboard tray
Measure clear depth and thickness before you choose a mount.

Install and set up the tray

Before you load the tray, slide it through its full travel and check that it clears your knees, the chair arms, the desk legs and any under-desk computer. Then set the height so your elbows rest roughly at your sides and your forearms are about level. Move the monitor too if needed: lowering the keyboard without adjusting the screen just shifts the mismatch. Type at your normal pressure and move the mouse across its full range. Clicking, twisting or a sagging front edge means something needs tightening or the tray is overloaded.

For the hardware steps (marking holes, choosing screw length, clamp torque), follow our guide to installing a keyboard tray with clamp and screw mounts.

Hands tightening a clamp-on keyboard tray bracket onto the front edge of a desk
A clamp-on tray mounts without drilling.

Under desk keyboard tray FAQ

Are keyboard trays good for ergonomics?

They can be, when they bring the keyboard and mouse to about elbow height and within easy reach, and you can return to that position every day. A tray is a tool for getting the height right, not a fix on its own. It works best alongside a matching chair height and monitor position.

Can you add a keyboard tray to any desk?

Not every desk. Screw-mounted trays need a solid underside thick enough for the screws, and clear space for the track or rails. Clamp-on trays need an edge within the clamp’s range and no apron in the way. Glass tops, very thin tops and desks with crossbars right under the front edge are the most common problems.

Clamp-on vs track keyboard tray: which is better?

A clamp-on tray avoids drilling and is easy to move, but it holds by pressure and usually offers less adjustment. A track tray needs screws, but it typically gives the widest range of height and tilt adjustment and feels steadier on a solid desk. Choose clamp-on if you can’t drill, and track if you want adjustability.

Do keyboard trays work with standing desks?

Many do, but check the full height range and cable slack at both sitting and standing heights. A tray that only sits below the desktop may not be useful when standing, so look for a design that can also sit level with or above the desktop.

Should the mouse go on the keyboard tray?

Ideally, yes. With the mouse at the same height as the keyboard, you don’t keep reaching up to the desktop. Choose a wide tray or one with a mouse wing if you use a mouse a lot.

Before you order: measure the desk thickness, the clear depth under the front edge and your knee room, then check the listing’s dimension drawing and stated load limit against those numbers.